NAMES TO KNOW (That You May Not Know Yet)

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UNPACKING THE NAMES OF DESIGNERS, MAKERS AND CRAFSTPEOPLE BEHIND SOME OF THE BEST JEWELS YOU CAN FIND

BOIVIN, René

René Boivin’s name is etched into the history of jewellery for his daring, sculptural creations that reshaped early 20th-century design. From the chunky architectural volumes of his Barbare collection to his nature-inspired masterpieces, Boivin’s work broke away from the delicacy of Art Nouveau, setting a bold new course that would prefigure Art Déco.

As extraordinary as his jewels, his clientele was a roll call of artists, thinkers and style icons that included Cole Porter, Edgar Degas, Millicent Rogers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Sigmund Freud and the last Empress of Vietnam.

A PORTRAIT OF RENÉ BOIVIN & THE LEGENDARY MILLICENT ROGERS WEARING THE EQUALLY LEGENDARY BOIVIN STARFISH

Born in 1864, Boivin entered the trade at a young age, apprenticed to his brother Victor at 17, while also studying drawing to refine his design skills. His early workshop produced pieces for the grandes maisons MELLERIO DITS MELLIER and BOUCHERON, and quickly attracted an elite, international following.

In 1890, he opened his own atelier; three years later, he married JEANNE POIRET, whose creative vision would later steer the maison into its most celebrated era.

Today, early BOIVIN jewels remain fiercely sought after by collectors, prized for their originality, craftsmanship, and unmistakable silhouettes. To own one is to wear a piece of design history, and to understand why Boivin is still regarded as one of the great visionaries of 20th-century fine jewellery.

Boivin’s style was defined by weight and presence: sculptural gold, bold textures, and forms inspired by Middle Eastern, Asian, and ancient art. He drew on botany, fauna, and mythology to create powerful, tactile pieces that were both wearable and commanding.

In 1905, he unveiled the BARBARE collection, a fearless fusion of Assyrian, Celtic, Egyptian, and Etruscan motifs, design elements that would echo through the coming decades.

Following Boivin’s death in 1917,his widow JEANNE POIRET BOIVIN took charge, refusing to dilute the house’s distinctive aesthetic.

She collaborated with SUZANNE BELPERRON and JULIETTE MOUTARD, producing some of Boivin’s most coveted creations, from the celebrated STARFISH brooch to gem-set animal jewels and bold, architectural cuffs ⎯ thus establishing one of the STRONGEST FEMALE VOICES in jewellery history.