NAMES TO KNOW (That You May Not Know Yet)

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UNPACKING THE NAMES OF DESIGNERS, MAKERS AND CRAFSTPEOPLE BEHIND SOME OF THE BEST JEWELS YOU CAN FIND

WEBB, David

Zebras, lions, frogs and tigers: welcome to the most glamorous zoo in New York. David Webb was never one to follow the crowd. Known for his bold gold, colourful stones and playful animal designs, he brought a fresh spirit to American jewellery in the 1950s. More than 75 years later, his work remains instantly recognisable, proving that great design never has to play it safe.

TWO ICONIC IMAGES BY JAPANESE PHOTOGRAPHER HIRO: DAVID WEBB'S ZEBRA BRACELET; A STACK OF ANIMAL BANGLES, HARPER’S BAZAAR, 1968

David Webb’s story begins in 1925 in Asheville, North Carolina, with copper ashtrays stamped with tiny spider’s webs, a playful nod to his surname and his first lesson in metalwork, taught by his uncle.

Raised in the quiet, green countryside of the American South, Webb sharpened his skills at Penland School of Craft in western North Carolina before setting his sights on New York. Once he arrived, things moved quickly. French socialite Antoinette ‘Topsy’ Quilleret introduced him to Manhattan’s elite, and in 1948, at just 23, he founded his own house.

Almost overnight, the boy from Asheville was the jeweller everyone wanted to know. By the 1950s, his work had landed on the cover of Vogue, and brands like Revlon and Ford were borrowing his pieces to sell their own.

DAVID WEBB IN HIS BOUTIQUE. ON HIS SHOULDER: AN OWL BROOCH IN ENAMEL, GOLD AND PLATINUM WITH TURQUOISE AND DIAMONDS

Spot a David Webb piece across the room and you’ll likely see a wild animal first. His jewelled creatures appear on everything from bracelets to brooches and rings, and they’ve become some of the most recognisable jewellery of the twentieth century.

Then there’s the gold: rather than polishing it smooth, Webb hand-hammered it so the textured surface catches the light. He paired it with stones such as coral, lapis, jade and rock crystal; framed in bold black, white and coloured enamel.

Webb believed fine jewellery should be worn from morning to midnight, every day. Many of his designs are convertible, and can be adapted to suit the moment without losing its character. You’d never mistake one for anyone else’s.

A TIGER PENDANT NECKLACE IN ENAMEL WITH DIAMONDS AND EMERALDS. MODEL TILLY TIZZANI WITH TWO DAVID WEBB TIGERS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY BERT STERN. SKETCH OF THE CLASSIC NAPE NECKLACE REIMAGINED WITH CABOCHON TURQUOISE

From the White House to Hollywood, Webb’s clients sat at the very top of American society. Three first ladies, including Jackie Kennedy, wore his work, as did Elizabeth Taylor, the most famous star of the time. Together, these women made Webb the jeweller of choice for America’s elite.

1964 marked a turning point in Webb’s career. That year, he won the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award, often called the ‘Oscars of fashion’. Judged by leading fashion editors and critics, it was the highest recognition a designer could earn, and it placed Webb among the among America’s leading designers.

He was honoured for his jewellery at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gloria Vanderbilt Cooper, the legendary heiress and New York society style icon, presented the award.

FROM SEPTEMBER 1975, A HARPER’S BAZAAR SHOOT SHOWCASING DAVID WEBB'S GOLD CLUTCH, CUFF AND EARRINGS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY HIRO

When Webb died in 1975, he left behind drawers full of unmade designs. Nina Silberstein, then president of David Webb Inc., and her family brought them to life, taking the house from Madison Avenue to Beverly Hills and, in 2023, all the way to Doha.
His work has since found a home in the art world, too. In 2018, The Met made room for a zebra, adding Webb’s black and white enamel Zebra bracelet to its permanent collection.

Now, a new chapter has begun. Investment firm Middle West Partners acquired the house in 2025, with plans for careful, long-term growth. Every piece is still made by hand in New York, just as it has been since 1948, now in the workshop above the Madison Avenue flagship.

The boy from Asheville never stopped playing with metal. He just got very, very good at it.

THE DAVID WEBB FLAGSHIP ON MADISON AVENUE. THE ZEBRA BRACELET, FROM HIS ‘JEWELLERY FOR AMERICA’ COLLECTION, ACQUIRED BY THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. THE HAND CRAFTSMANSHIP BEHIND THE BROCADE COLLECTION, FIRST DESIGNED IN THE 1970S.