CORAL, EMERALD & DIAMOND BUTTERFLY BROOCH, 1960s
CORAL, EMERALD & DIAMOND BUTTERFLY BROOCH, 1960s
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NATURE, TURNED INTO HIGH JEWELLERY: A MONUMENTAL ITALIAN BUTTERFLY BROOCH with eight cabochon emeralds and diamonds set on 18k yellow gold. With its wings spreading across eight individually carved orange-pink coral panels, this is a jewel with spectacular colour, scale and flight.
Estimated to have been created between the late 1960s and 1970s, this butterfly brooch captures the exuberant naturalism of post-war Italian fine jewellery. A piece of craftsmanship that becomes an opulent 3D sculpture of organic materials in elaborate, handcrafted goldwork.
Eight softly domed, oval cabochon emeralds form the head and elongated body, their inclusions and shifting green tones bringing life to the composition. The six emeralds along the abdomen are framed by halos of round brilliant-cut diamonds, with further diamonds illuminating the thorax and slender gold antennae.
Across the wings, individually carved and polished coral panels overlap to create volume and movement. Fine gold wires follow their contours like delicate veins, sharpening the contrast between vivid orange-pink coral, saturated emerald green and touches of white.
The reverse reveals a complex openwork gallery of scrolling gold wire. This construction's intricacy supports the coral wings while reducing weight and allowing light to touch the gemstones. A long hinged pin and safety catch secure the brooch.
WE LOVE THIS BROOCH because its monumental proportions turn a familiar butterfly motif into a veritable style statement: The combination of orange-pink coral, cabochon emeralds and diamonds produces an unforgettable explosion of colour; while the elaborate reverse construction reveals profoundly accomplished goldwork.
STYLE: This butterfly was made to land where you can see it. Pin this brooch high on the shoulder of a navy, charcoal or camel coat, position it at the neckline of an ivory jacket, or let it electrify a burgundy evening look. The substantial weight calls for structured fabrics; avoid attaching it directly to delicate silk or lightweight knitwear. We also love it worn on a wide belt or attached to an evening clutch.
Our Price Analysis
AN OPPORTUNITY: This is a strong, vintage butterfly pin built around a high-impact coral motif, accented by eight cabochon emeralds, with standout scale and a notably heavy gross weight of 64.20g.
• MATERIAL VALUE: The pin’s value is carried by its ornamental coral work and the eight cabochon emeralds, plus the sheer physical presence implied by its weight.
• DESIGN VALUE: Butterfly brooches remain one of the most liquid, cross-era motifs because they read immediately on the body and suit both collectors and fashion buyers. Here, the design value is amplified by scale and sculptural effect: a wide wing span (7cm), a longer body line (7.5cm), and a color contrast between saturated coral and green emerald cabochons.
• SECONDARY MARKET VALUE: Broadly described gem-set brooches trade more on materials, size, and visual impact than on brand-driven scarcity. In that context, this is an excellent price considering scale, materials and craftsmanship.
• COLLECTOR VALUE: This piece offers period appeal and an enduring motif that supports long term interest in the design-driven category: buyers collecting coral jewellery, animal and insect forms, and statement brooches.
• PRICE VALUE: This pin is priced as a large, statement, gem-accented coral jewel where value is carried by scale, motif strength, and visual impact. The pricing leans into the piece’s presence and materials rather than a signed house premium, creating value for a buyer who prioritises design over name.
Details
BRAND & PERIOD: Unsigned Italian workshop, estimated circa 1965–1975
MATERIALS: 18k yellow gold; eight oval cabochon-cut emeralds, measuring approx. 5.5–8mm, estimated weight 5–7ct total; round brilliant-cut diamonds, estimated 1–1.5ct total; eight individually carved and polished orange-pink coral wing panels. Weights and measurements are estimates. For exact figures, please message us.
DIMENSIONS: Length 7.50cm; width 7cm
WEIGHT: 64.20g
FASTENING: Hinged brooch pin with safety catch
CONDITION: Very good, with light surface wear consistent with age. Can be repolished for you upon request.
JWL AUTHENTICITY GUARANTEE
• Seller Profile: This item is offered by a Trusted Dealer in Italy
• Origin: Estimated to have been crafted by an Italian fine jewellery workshop
• Provenance available upon request
• Maker’s marks and hallmarks available upon request
• Certificate available upon request
Please note that, as the brooch contains coral, international shipping restrictions may apply.
Taxes & Duties
Taxes & Duties
Depending on your location and the seller’s location, your purchase may be subject to domestic VAT or import taxes and duties. These charges are not included in the listed price, as they are determined by your final delivery address and may vary over time.
Any applicable taxes and duties are calculated precisely at checkout, based on the item’s location, its harmonised system (HS) code, and your selected delivery destination.
We kindly advise you to take these potential charges into consideration when reviewing your basket prior to purchase. Should you require any clarification, our team remains at your disposal.
Trusted Dealers
Trusted Dealers
At JWL, we carefully select each of our dealers to ensure they meet our high standards of expertise and quality. We work closely with them to guarantee that every product listed is authentic, well-curated, and meets our stringent criteria for craftsmanship and condition. Learn more about our dealers here.
Safe Shipping
Safe Shipping
We partner with the most reliable global couriers to ensure that your purchase is shipped securely and arrives in perfect condition. Every shipment is fully insured, giving you peace of mind from the moment it leaves our dealers’ hands to when it reaches yours. Learn more about our shipping process here.
Secure Payment
Secure Payment
Your payment is protected with our escrow system. JWL holds the funds until your item is safely delivered and you’ve had 24 hours to confirm everything is in order. Only then do we release the payment to the dealer, ensuring a smooth and worry-free transaction.
Refund Policy
Refund Policy
Due to the high value, collectible nature, and vulnerability to fraud (e.g. part-swapping or gemstone replacement), we do not accept returns or offer refunds, except under limited circumstances.
We strongly encourage all buyers to carefully review each listing, including photographs, measurements, and descriptions, before placing an order.
Please take a moment to review our Refund Policy. We welcome you to get in contact to learn more.
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