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EMERALD, DIAMOND & GOLD COCKTAIL RING, 1950s

EMERALD, DIAMOND & GOLD COCKTAIL RING, 1950s

Regular price 8,773 GBP
Regular price Sale price 8,773 GBP
Sale Sold

AN EXTRAORDINARY MIDCENTURY OPERA RING CROWNED BY A BOMBÉ CABOCHON EMERALD, itself surrounded by an elaborate micromosaic of mixed cut diamonds, platinum and yellow gold. A smaller emerald, concealed inside the ring, turns this magnificent creation into a deliciously private secret.

This ring, estimated to have been created in the 1950s, carries forward the fantasy of Art Déco while embracing the volume and exuberance of Midcentury fine jewellery. The construction -intensely decorative yet so disciplined- brings flowers, geometry and intricate goldwork into a remarkably coherent composition.

The principal emerald rises dramatically above the hand, its polished surface revealing a jade shade of green. Below, marquise, pear, carré and round diamonds form an ornate platinum-set garden, interspersed with sculpted gold rosettes, scrolls and geometric details.

Beneath the principal emerald sits a second oval emerald, surrounded by additional diamonds and visible only from inside the ring. This unexpected detail reveals the imagination and craftsmanship invested in every angle.

WE LOVE THIS RING for the tension between the organic centre and its intricate architecture. The emerald feels elemental and sensual, while the mixed diamonds, floral goldwork and structured shank bring authority. Even the hidden surfaces have been considered, making this a true collector's item.

STYLE: Let this ring dominate the index or middle finger. The saturated green looks magnificent against darker hues, while ivory and pale pink reveal a softer character. Use it to intensify velvet and evening fabrics, or offset its romantic decoration with a white shirt, dark denim or other clean, masculine clothes. We advise restrain on neighbouring rings.

NOTE: A matching pair of emerald-and-diamond earrings is available separately through JWL Market. Their shared materials, diamond cuts and goldwork suggest these jewels may have been conceived by the same workshop as elements of a coordinated parure.

Our Price Analysis

AN EXCELLENT PRICE because reproducing a ring of this gemstone volume, diamond content and construction would be exceptionally difficult today. Its value extends beyond the principal emerald and diamonds, gold construction, and unusually elaborate hidden detailing.

• MATERIAL VALUE: The ring contains a high-domed emerald estimated at 35–50ct, a second concealed emerald estimated at 1–2ct and approximately 3–5ct of mixed-cut diamonds. The 32gr gross weight provides further support. Emerald identity, treatment and weights should be confirmed before purchase.

• CRAFTSMANSHIP: Marquise, pear, carré and round diamonds have been integrated with platinum settings, sculpted gold rosettes, granulated details and braided borders. The smaller emerald and additional diamonds beneath the principal stone demonstrate workmanship intended to reward close inspection from every angle.

• PERIOD & DESIGN VALUE: The design blends Art Déco workmanship with the naturalism of 1950s jewellery. Its unusually complex combination of a monumental cabochon, floral motifs and intricate benchwork gives it far greater distinction than conventional emerald cocktail rings.

• PARURE & PROVENANCE VALUE: The availability of closely related earrings adds important design context and the opportunity to reassemble a possible parure. Both jewels come from an important Italian jewellery archive, strengthening their provenance and collector interest.

• SECONDARY MARKET VALUE: While signed examples are not directly comparable to an unsigned jewel, they demonstrate the strength of this category. A Tiffany & Co. ring dating to c. 1950, set with an 8.50ct cabochon emerald and 1.55ct of diamonds, carried a $20,000–$30,000 auction estimate. This emerald, diamond and gold cocktail ring offers considerably greater estimated gemstone volume at a meaningfully lower level.

• CONDITION & SELLER VALUE: Offered in very good condition by a JWL Trusted Dealer in Italy, with a certificate available upon request, the ring benefits from professional verification options and archive provenance.

• PRICE VALUE: Even allowing for unsigned authorship and the need to confirm the emeralds’ identity and treatment, the asking price leaves significant room beneath comparable high jewellery positioning. This is an excellent opportunity to acquire a one-of-a-kind cocktail ring with exceptional presence and craftsmanship.

Details

BRAND & PERIOD: Unsigned European workshop, estimated 1950s

MATERIALS: 18k yellow gold, diamond-set platinum, one high-domed oval cabochon-cut emerald, measuring 2.50 x 2cm and estimated to weigh 35–50ct; one smaller oval emerald, estimated at 1–2ct, set beneath the principal stone; mixed-cut diamonds, including marquise, pear, carré and round, estimated at 3–5ct total. Gemstone identity, treatment and weights are estimates. For exact figures, please message us.

RING SIZE: Estimated Italian size 16 / EU 56 / UK P / US 7½. Please message us for confirmed sizing.
DIMENSIONS: Principal emerald length 2.50cm; width 2cm. Please message us for further measurements.
WEIGHT: 32gr

CONDITION: Very good, with light surface wear consistent with age. Can be repolished for you upon request.

RELATED PIECE: A matching emerald-and-diamond pair of earrings is available separately through JWL Market. The shared materials, mixed diamond cuts, goldwork and detailing suggest that the jewels may have been created by the same workshop as elements of a coordinated demi-parure.

JWL AUTHENTICITY GUARANTEE

• Seller Profile: This item is offered by a Trusted Dealer in Italy
• Provenance: From an important Italian jewellery archive
• Origin: Estimated Italian or Continental European
• Maker’s marks and hallmarks available upon request
• Certificate available upon request

Taxes & Duties

Depending on your location and the seller’s location, your purchase may be subject to domestic VAT or import taxes and duties. These charges are not included in the listed price, as they are determined by your final delivery address and may vary over time.

Any applicable taxes and duties are calculated precisely at checkout, based on the item’s location, its harmonised system (HS) code, and your selected delivery destination.

We kindly advise you to take these potential charges into consideration when reviewing your basket prior to purchase. Should you require any clarification, our team remains at your disposal.

Trusted Dealers

At JWL, we carefully select each of our dealers to ensure they meet our high standards of expertise and quality. We work closely with them to guarantee that every product listed is authentic, well-curated, and meets our stringent criteria for craftsmanship and condition. Learn more about our dealers here.

Safe Shipping

We partner with the most reliable global couriers to ensure that your purchase is shipped securely and arrives in perfect condition. Every shipment is fully insured, giving you peace of mind from the moment it leaves our dealers’ hands to when it reaches yours. Learn more about our shipping process here.

Secure Payment

Your payment is protected with our escrow system. JWL holds the funds until your item is safely delivered and you’ve had 24 hours to confirm everything is in order. Only then do we release the payment to the dealer, ensuring a smooth and worry-free transaction.

Refund Policy

Due to the high value, collectible nature, and vulnerability to fraud (e.g. part-swapping or gemstone replacement), we do not accept returns or offer refunds, except under limited circumstances.

We strongly encourage all buyers to carefully review each listing, including photographs, measurements, and descriptions, before placing an order.

Please take a moment to review our Refund Policy. We welcome you to get in contact to learn more.

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