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SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND & GOLD CHOKER, c. 1900s
SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND & GOLD CHOKER, c. 1900s
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BLUE AT ITS MOST REGAL: AN ANTIQUE CHOKER NECKLACE composed of ten strands of faceted blue sapphire beads, estimated at over 180 carats, that are exquisitely punctuated by old-cut diamond plaques. An extraordinary feat of craftsmanship, it possesses elegance like few other jewels.
Estimated circa 1900–1915, the necklace reflects the late Victorian and Belle Époque fashion for opulent colliers de chien. Its construction, unmistakably antique, features multiple gemstone strands secured by pierced diamond plaques and slender spacer bars for structure and flexibility.
Approximately 900–1,000 faceted sapphire rondelles create a mesmerising field of cornflower, violet-blue and midnight tones. Three broad rectangular plaques introduce flashes of antique brilliance. Their pierced scrolling galleries, formed in silver-topped yellow gold, are set with 15 principal old European and old mine-cut diamonds, alongside smaller old, single and rose-cut accents. Further diamond-set spacers align the strands while allowing the necklace to curve smoothly around the neck.
A COLLECTOR'S ESSENTIAL: This is not a casual day jewel or an accidental purchase. It is a deliberate acquisition for a collector who understands the rarity of its materials, construction and survival. This piece comes from an extraordinary vault in Northern Italy, and this is the first time in decades that it comes to market.
STYLE: Reserve it for the moments that deserve it. Wear it with a strapless gown or a deep neckline for a gala, or let it transform a pared-back evening look for a night on the town. The close-fitting silhouette is particularly striking with swept-up hair, leaving the sapphire strands and antique diamond plaques entirely exposed. No competing necklace required; we advise keeping the earrings restrained.
Our Price Analysis
AN EXCELLENT PRICE because an antique sapphire collar of this volume, complexity and condition would be exceptionally difficult to reproduce today. The value lies not only in its estimated gemstone content, but in the feat of assembling approximately 900–1,000 sapphires within a sophisticated Belle Époque construction.
• MATERIAL VALUE: Ten strands contain an estimated 180–230ct of faceted blue sapphires, complemented by approximately 2.5–3.5ct of old-cut diamonds. The substantial 55.95g gross weight provides further intrinsic support, while the colour range and consistency of the sapphire beads add value beyond carat weight alone.
• CRAFTSMANSHIP: Sourcing, matching, faceting, drilling and threading this quantity of sapphires would have required considerable skill. The pierced silver-topped gold plaques, mixed antique diamond cuts and precisely positioned spacer bars demonstrate the labour-intensive construction expected of an important period jewel.
• PERIOD & RARITY: Authentic late Victorian and Belle Époque *colliers de chien* are increasingly scarce, particularly when their multiple strands, pierced diamond plaques and close-fitting proportions remain intact.
• SECONDARY MARKET VALUE: A closely comparable early-20th-century multi-strand sapphire and old-cut diamond necklace is currently offered in the dealer market at more than twice the price of this jewel. Even allowing for the distinction between asking prices and achieved auction results, the comparison provides strong support for the value offered here.
• PROVENANCE & CONDITION: Drawn from an important Italian jewellery archive, offered publicly for the first time in decades and preserved in excellent condition, the necklace carries provenance and scarcity that cannot be measured through gemstone value alone.
• PRICE VALUE: The current price represents a compelling opportunity to acquire an important antique sapphire collar at roughly half the asking level of a close dealer-market analogue. Its gemstone volume, historic construction, condition and archive provenance make this a very fair proposition for the serious collector.
Details
BRAND & PERIOD: Vintage
MATERIALS: Ten strands of approximately 900–1,000 faceted blue sapphire rondelle beads, measuring approx. 2.5–4mm and estimated to weigh 180–230ct total; 15 principal old European and old mine-cut diamonds with smaller old, single and rose-cut diamond accents, estimated 2.5–3.5ct total; pierced diamond plaques and spacer bars likely mounted in silver-topped 18k yellow gold. The sapphire strands may have been restrung at a later date. Bead count, measurements, carat weights and metal construction are estimates. For exact figures, please message us.
SIZE / DIMENSIONS: length 30cm. Please contact us for further measurements.
WEIGHT: 55.95gr
CONDITION: Excellent
JWL AUTHENTICITY GUARANTEE:
• Seller Profile: This item is offered by a Trusted Dealer in Italy
• Provenance: Drawn from an important Italian jewellery archive and offered on the open market for the first time in decades
• Origin: Estimated French or Continental European
• Maker’s marks and hallmarks available upon request
• Certificate available upon request
Taxes & Duties
Taxes & Duties
Depending on your location and the seller’s location, your purchase may be subject to domestic VAT or import taxes and duties. These charges are not included in the listed price, as they are determined by your final delivery address and may vary over time.
Any applicable taxes and duties are calculated precisely at checkout, based on the item’s location, its harmonised system (HS) code, and your selected delivery destination.
We kindly advise you to take these potential charges into consideration when reviewing your basket prior to purchase. Should you require any clarification, our team remains at your disposal.
Trusted Dealers
Trusted Dealers
At JWL, we carefully select each of our dealers to ensure they meet our high standards of expertise and quality. We work closely with them to guarantee that every product listed is authentic, well-curated, and meets our stringent criteria for craftsmanship and condition. Learn more about our dealers here.
Safe Shipping
Safe Shipping
We partner with the most reliable global couriers to ensure that your purchase is shipped securely and arrives in perfect condition. Every shipment is fully insured, giving you peace of mind from the moment it leaves our dealers’ hands to when it reaches yours. Learn more about our shipping process here.
Secure Payment
Secure Payment
Your payment is protected with our escrow system. JWL holds the funds until your item is safely delivered and you’ve had 24 hours to confirm everything is in order. Only then do we release the payment to the dealer, ensuring a smooth and worry-free transaction.
Refund Policy
Refund Policy
Due to the high value, collectible nature, and vulnerability to fraud (e.g. part-swapping or gemstone replacement), we do not accept returns or offer refunds, except under limited circumstances.
We strongly encourage all buyers to carefully review each listing, including photographs, measurements, and descriptions, before placing an order.
Please take a moment to review our Refund Policy. We welcome you to get in contact to learn more.

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